Exploring: The Cotswolds

We had the great pleasure of visiting and exploring the Cotswolds recently and it felt just like I was living in the pages of some of my favourite books! While we didn't see all this Area of Outstanding National Beauty has to offer, we made our way through a few delightful villages.

Here are some thoughts and impressions on a few little gems of the Cotswolds: Bibury, Bourton-on-the-Water, Tetbury, Kingscote, and Castle Combe.

Arriving in The Cotswolds

While it is well known that the country roads of England are narrow and lined with verdant green hedgerows, what people fail to mention is just how fast people drive down these winding lanes! What should feel like you've been transported into a Jane Austen or J.R.R. Tolkien novel instead is giving you heart palpitations and making your palms sweaty. But amidst it all, there are moments when you are quite alone on those roads that have been cut into massive fields of green and vibrant yellow and the desire to frolic is almost more than one can bear.

Settling into your cottage that once stood as a caretakers home on a beautiful estate, you revel in the apple blossoms dancing through the air and the thrilling indecision of where you will drink your tea in the morning. The evening birds sing an unfamiliar song, but call you to fully arrive in the surrounding natural world with a joyful heart.

Dinner brings you to Hunter's Hall, a roadside pub that's been there since the 16th century. You are suddenly on the lookout for the steamy and mysterious eyes of Aragorn and hoping some barefoot hobbits will suddenly burst in, requesting a pint. Bangers & Mash or Beef & Ale Pie - you can't go wrong here - and both are served with a cheerfully perky pile of green peas. You catch a rainbow in the fields to the south as the sun sets in the west, casting its warm springtime rays over the wet grass, rolling hills, and little stone walls. You have officially arrived in the Cotswolds.

Bibury - Arlington Row

Bibury

Bibury is a small village with a population of about 600 people. It's mainly visited for its historic Arlington Row - a row of old weavers cottages all connected together and in seemingly great condition. These 14th century dwellings featured in the movie adaptation of Neil Gaiman's Stardust as their quaint village of "Wall". Although it was coined "the most beautiful village in England" by William Morris, I am not sure I agree. It's very quaint, walkable, charming, and makes you feel like you're in a postcard, but "most beautiful" might be a stretch. We did wander up the path to the village church, St. Mary's, and were treated to the entire place to ourselves, save the organist rehearsing some pieces for Sunday's service. It's a stunning building with a rich history, a mossy surrounding graveyard, stained glass windows, and very sweet artwork from the parish Sunday School children. We had a nice stop in Bibury, but I would imagine it wouldn't have been such a joyful and peaceful stop had we been here in peak summer! Spring is definitely the time to see this lovely area of the UK.

Bourton-on-the-Water - Bakery on the Water

Bourton-on-the-Water

Bourton-on-the-Water is nicknamed the Venice of the Cotswolds, and while that's not really accurate, it does have a lovely, crystal clear river running through its centre and iconic foot and car bridges passing over it. We packed a picnic lunch that morning and found a sunny bench along the river to enjoy it. The high street has many interesting shops ranging from your standard tourist fare to locally made crafts, a perfumery, a few ice cream joints, beautiful bakeries, and riverside pubs. We stopped to watch three young teens washing their pony in the river - it was as bizarre as it sounds - and continued on to buy bags of candy from the sweet shop and munch away while strolling through this idyllic town. There were a few things we didn't get to do here, like a walk to the nearby village of Lower Slaughter through the fields and a trip to the Dragonfly Maze, so I would say Bourton-on-the-Water was a win for us and left us wanting more! Be sure to wear your walking shoes when you visit.

Tetbury - Chipping Steps

Tetbury

Tetbury is an absolute delight and a highlight of our time in the Cotswolds. This little village is home to Highgrove House, the official residence of King Charles III, and it was streaming with Union Jack bunting, coronation flags, and cardboard cut outs of the whole royal family, as the King had just been crowned days before. There is a wonderful mix of modern amenities, high quality shopping, medieval buildings, and adorable cottages. We enjoyed a cream tea at The Close Hotel downtown in a small walled garden in the middle of the village, took a self-guided tour of St Mary's Church in which we were again the only visitors, walked along the famous Chipping Steps dating back to medieval times, shopped in the official Highgrove gift shop and then subsequently ran out of money, as the royal stamp of approval on merchandise seems to jack the price up. The people of Tetbury were delightfully friendly, the town was easy to navigate, and it was just about the perfect size. My only wish was that we could have toured the King's gardens at Highgrove House, but alas... we would have needed to reserve those tickets on the day I was born.

Kingscote - St Mary's Church

Kingscote

Kingscote is a very small parish just outside of Tetbury and where we stayed while visiting the Cotswolds. Taking a walk through the few streets that make up this parish is whimsical to say the least. Every cottage has a small sign out front, boasting the most quaint names you could imagine - I am now resolved to name my home Bumblebee Cottage, suitable as the path to our door is lined with lavender that the bees absolutely love! We took to the vast green fields of Kingscote on a muddy footpath towards a small copse of trees. I was certain I would see Pooh Bear and Piglet out there, but alas, they must have heard us coming and wandered off. Few things make you feel quite as small as standing in the middle of a vast field. The majesty of the Cotswolds is undeniable. Both the natural beauty of the fields and forests and the honey-coloured historic cottages, churches, and shops will surely take your breath away.

Castle Combe - Water Lane

Castle Combe

By far the most peaceful village we visited, Castle Combe is about as quaint as they come. Having also been featured in Stardust, this town oozes with the essence of a time gone by. In a sense it almost feels forgotten, as if you were actually on a movie set and not in a real village. The peace comes in the lack of shops and likely the lack of tourists this time of year. There was no shopping is Castle Combe and the main event here is to simply wander the streets and trails. After snapping a few photos and taking in the sights, we ordered lunch from a woman's home where she packages up a picnic box for you to take and enjoy. The food was incredible and it even came with a milky tea to go. Walking into the surrounding woods, the wild garlic was in bloom and scented the air with a unique woodsy smell while we hopped about to avoid muddy puddles, following the course of the crystal clear river. Saint Andrew's Church was similar to others we had seen, but is home to a unique faceless clock that was built by a blacksmith in the 14oo's! I stopped for a while to listen to its rhythmic counting of the seconds, imagining the many people who have heard the distinct "tic-toc" of this historic clock. If you can beat the crowds and enjoy this village when it's quieter, you will find yourself immersed in its beauty and tranquility.

I am so grateful for the restful time spent in this grassy and storied part of the world!

Where would you love to go when exploring the Cotswolds?

Or if you've been, what's your favourite place in the Cotswolds?